Collection FW2015: Flots, Fleurs et Frontaux

Émile Hermès began collecting at the age of twelve.  The resulting ‘cabinet of curiosities’ reflects the open, inquiring mind of this passionate, amateur art lover.  Émile was a tireless walker, and a regular at the sale rooms, endlessly on the look-out for strange, unexpected pieces to add to those he had already amassed.

The equestrian world holds a special place: Virginie Jamin’s neatly-ordered scarf takes inspiration from the models in a 19th-century catalogue.  Brow-bands (the bridle strap positioned across the horse’s forehead) decorated with medallions are arranged in a labyrinth of straight lines, while ribbon rosettes, presented as prizes at equestrian competitions, are displayed amid a scattering of flowers.

Collection FW2015: Mélodie Chromatique

Musical notes and colours show close affinities: abstract art pioneer Wassily Kandinsky evoked the musicality of colour in modern painting, and composer Olivier Messiaen celebrated the perpetual dialogue of sound and colour.

Virgine Jamin’s design evokes the pipes and bowls of a complex still, or a curious arrangement of organ pipes. ‘Colours are musical notes,’ she says. If so, then the silk carrés of Hermès, with their endlessly-inventive, perfectly-balanced chromatic harmonies, are alive with resonant, vibrant sound, inspiring a poetic choreography in the wearer. 

Here, each colour bears a hint of the nuance to come, just as each step heralds the next.

Collection SS2015: Steeple Chase

According to popular legend, steeple-chasing was born in Ireland, in the 18th century. Two riders, each eager to prove the unmatched quality of his horse, decided to compete in a race across country. The pair chose two prominent church towers to mark the start and finish of their course, over four miles, from one steeple to the next, tackling every possible obstacle along the way – hedges and fences, ditches, stone walls and streams. Only in the 19th century did races of this type receive official recognition in England, in the county of Bedfordshire. 

Inspired by the tough challenge of the steeple-chase, Virginie Jamin sets a host of jockeys and mounts racing around the borders of her carré, poised to gallop through the graphic, central circuit, like pieces in a colourful board game..

Collection SS2015: A l'Ombre des Boulevards

A wonderful tribute to Paris, "In the Shade of Boulevards" transports the admirer to one of the iconic elements of Parisian life: its Grands Boulevards (and with the winter blues dragging on, one cannot think of a better way to enjoy the memories - or aspirations - of discovering Paris on foot.

This is also very fitting for the Hermes theme for 2015: Flâneur Forever or Invitation à la flânerie - that is, invitation to stroll around aimlessly but enjoyable, observing life and his/her surroundings.

Streets have had, since ancient times, a dual function: economic and social; streets were both a practical solution to moving about and a conduit to pleasurable strolls.  As streets became defined by the people and businesses that occupy them, some became very appealing thanks to the spectacles they offered: elegant people, bohemian people, storefronts or buildings.

Travellers observe locals go about their business, enjoying both the time and place so well anchored in the Parisian life.

Take a stroll through this carré and lose track of time along the Grands Boulevards.

Collection FW2014: Brides et Gris-Gris

Buckles, riding-crops, finely-decorated head-pieces, bridles, reins and snaffle bits… From the outset, the house of Hermès has celebrated the art of bridlery, contributing to elevate it to the noble status it deserves. Each piece, from the simplest to the most complex design, demands faultless expertise for the well-being of mount and rider alike. Drawing on this rich repertoire, Virgine Jamin offers a contemporary take on these timeless motifs, a spiralling portrait of rings and plaits… Leaving nothing to chance, the silhouettes of some of the house’s iconic objects have been added to the mix in the form of leather fobs or lucky charms – a little horse, a stirrup, a tall riding-hat, finished with the inimitable saddle stitch.

Collection SS2011: Concours d'Etriers

I'm seizing on two important events - the timid arrival of spring and the Canadian Federal elections - to feature a scarf that echoes the former in colour and the latter in spirit.


Concours d'etriers (Stirrup Contest) depicts many of the stirrups discovered by Emile Hermes from lands close and far-away, and diligently added to his personal collection, one of the many manifestations of his admiration of everything related to the noble horse.  Another account of some of the stirrups was gracefully captured in the classic "Etriers" scarf that I featured on December 31st of 2009, so I won't insist on the items; instead, I thought it appropriate in light of the Canadian political parties undergoing a contest themselves, in which the de facto leader of the country - the Prime Minister - is to be chosen.  As a metaphor for the political landscape, the number of stirrups, and their proximity to each other, make it rather difficult to distinguish and appreciate the individual features and - hence - the beauty of each piece.  That is because their number dazzles us; we train our eye to seek out the pieces that somehow stand out - the larger sizes or those of brighter or darker colours.  Yet we must quickly develop a "plan of attack" to evaluate each item based on its own merits in order to pass an opinion on which one deserves the top prize - a difficult task, naturally !  Fortunately, the beauty of the collection rests not in the impressive number of items that makes it, but in every piece being carefully selected for its inner beauty - through his intense work and discriminate eye, the collector has done the evaluation for us, thereby helping us tremendously!  The question is whether the Canadians will be as passionate and as discriminate as a true connoisseur to choose wisely.


Finally, a word on the arrival of spring (or its hide-and-seek play).  The trees in Toronto have finally bloomed (remember, it is May already!) and the sight is absolutely marvelous.  The joy triggered by the rebirth of nature is without limits and I've been experiencing this sentiment fully over the last week.  I can only imagine what the coming days will surprise us with !


Until then, there's a wonderful surprise in this very scarf design: the way the scarf ties is unexpected and quite beautiful.  Similar in spirit with the "Voyages en etoffes", perhaps the the most delicate example in this scarf is the one depicted below, with a combination of blues, cream and light brown for a truly magic effect.

Collection SS2011: Mots de soie

Writing came about as a result of the prehistoric man's need to record the production and exchange of the goods he produced.  Since then, the art of writing has recorded the entire range of human experience, from the sacred to the profane.  Writing was destined to supply and preserve a record of the past, even at the expense of our ability to memorize.

Hermes pays tribute, through this design, to the written words - words recorded on silk as a metaphor for all future generations to discover, embrace and protect the tasters of the past.  The composition is very similar to "Le monde est vaste" - a design I spoke about last year, and a more recent design - "Les dix cavaliers" - of June 2010.  What I found surprising is the designer behind this scarf: no other than Virginie Jamin, the creator of "Belles du Mexique".  This pattern is such a departure from the previous style and approach.  To me, what just such a departure indicates is the designer's versatility in expressing herself in a variety of styles, which may be encouraging or not, depending on the results.  I would take the liberty to predict that this design will be nowhere near the previous one in terms of popularity.  Still, the actual words recorded on this scarf are charming, full of positive resonance and simply enchanting. 

And since we touched on the concept of beauty in the context of the written word - as an integral component of a culture's most distinguishable expression: the language - a final thought on what would make a language beautiful.  Early on, I used to think that certain languages (such as French, Italian and Greek) were truly beautiful; yet, with the passing of time, I came to realize that what makes a language beautiful is the speakers' choices of words (similar to a wedding, where beauty is dictated not as much by what the bride and groom wear, but rather by what all the guests wear, for when everyone is dressed elegantly, the entire wedding is elegant).   So I cannot think of a more elegant invitation to all those who harbour a special appreciation for languages to search their memory for the words that had a special resonance with them throughout the years and enrich their communication styles with them.

Due to its many colours in this combination and the additional characters (in complimentary hues), the pattern is quite busy, so the choice of this design will certainly reflect the wearer's personality (for instance, the scarf featured above has very strong colours, meant to reflect a strong personality whereas the one knotted below has very soft colours, mirroring a more discreet person).

Ode to Great Friendships: Collection FW2009: Belles du Mexique

Last year I introduced the Belles du Mexique scarf, a design that I found beautiful, but also appropriately described as hypnotically captivating. Today I am featuring a reinterpretation of design, this time in a smaller size, because its effects on me are equally enchanting, stirring and inspiring - similar to the influences of great friendships. And since it is thanks to this very design that our paths crossed, I found it only appropriate that I dedicate this post to a new friend whom I had the privilege of meeting - albeit virtually, for now - and whose kind words, generosity and discriminate taste for beauty are both admirable and tremendously inspiring.

Beyond her exquisite beauty and stylish appearance, this friend is, for me, the personification of absolute elegance - a trait that I attribute to her distinguished attitude, that inner (and an utmost intimate) element that defines us and imprints, in everything we do and everyone we meet, the signature of our being.

Picking the scarf in the gavroche size (45cm x 45cm) was not random, but rather triply symbolic: first, while I had already been mesmerized by this design when it was first launched, in 2007, it was her initial purchase of this scarf that triggered my curiosity about it (she posted pictures of herself sporting it in various fun ways which further added to my admiration both for the scarf and for my friend); so in this respect, it is this very design that brought us together. Second, the smaller size is equally symbolic of our young, yet rich and meaningful friendship. Like any relationship, friendships blossom over time - sometimes in unexpected ways - and while the potential is plentiful, they require care as they are cultivated. But make no mistake! They are as fragile as the snowdrops (or "Indian pipes", although these are not as appealing as the former) so understanding, caring, rich nutrients and abundant warm light are of paramount importance to the growth of such friendships. Third, this design, with its twirling dancers, exude vitality, vivaciousness, love for life and optimism - traits that I recognized in my friend and which - I consider - define me as well.

This scarf was issued in 2009, the year when my friend and I crossed paths, so this is yet another reason behind my choice.

The magenta, brown and various hues of orange instill a richness in the design unmatched by any other colour combinations - just as a profound person, like my friend, would instill in our friendship.

Finally, note the signature on the scarf - my friend's pen name and title of her own site, where even a brief visit will convince you of the truth of my words about her. She took this shot, so we can all admire the scarf in all its splendour.

This is a scarf that I cherish not only for its pattern and colours, but also for the rich symbolism I attribute to it. If I were to use a single word to describe - either the scarf, or my friend - that word would be exquisite !

Collection SS2007: Belles du Mexique II

Another treasured find, albeit not in my collection, is this very joyful scarf in summery colours. So youthful, so playful, and so dynamic ! Lots of fun !

Collection FW2008: Dancing Pearls

Virginie Jamin, who has created a name for herself with such wildly popular designs as "Belles du Mexique", dreamt up a story of a woman who leaves India on a boat without suitcases or memories. All she carries with her is a light, sparkling necklace of Indian pearls. Swayed by the tumultuous waves, she starts spinning in circles in a sort of hypnotic dance. Her necklace twirls in time and appears to be actively participating in this unique choreography.


The movement of the pearls draws her into an intoxicating whirlwind. The necklace that offered her the most beautiful dance of her life comes undone at one end, sending the pearls rolling, spreading loose, being engulfed by the sea. All that remains of this magical moment is a single pearl, which she wears every day, because it brings her a peaceful sense of happiness.


The design instills a surprising sensation of movement. The pattern is pretty busy; yet, I consider that the scarf should be worn so as to display in a bigger proportion than others the pattern, to communicate its message clearly. A headscarf would be a wonderful fantasist manner.

Collection SS2007: Belles du Mexique

One of the most striking designs I have ever come across, "Belles du Mexique" ("the Beauties of Mexico") is yet another ode to the effervescence of the Mexican culture, as so vivaciously expressed by the fiestas.  Indeed, this scarf is a celebration of the serenading music, dynamic dancing, rich display of costumes and of the Mexican people (in here, predominantly women) who feast the eyes of the admirers with their skills and beauty.


A first glance suggests circles lined up along the scarf edges in orderly fashion; yet, on closer inspection, we recognize that every apparent "circle" depicts, in fact, a Mexican dancer's dress, in full swirling motion.  The focal point of the scarf depicts - perhaps - THE most beautiful dancer, surrounded by four Mexican gents serenading her.  


The border is made up of  a geometric pattern that adds a harmonious balance to this otherwise playful and very dynamic design.  The careful use of colours adds dynamism and playfullness as well.  By far one of my most favourite designs, this scarf is a true fiesta for anyone wearing it, traditionally, around the neck, on the shoulders or as a waistband.  You are sure to turn heads !